Thursday, July 30, 2009
no time to blog!
Well I am in Antwerp, Belgium! I have been so busy with traveling and sightseeing, plus a few assignments to finish up for the Rome program, that I haven't found the time to blog. But Antwerp is great so far, we are couchsurfing here and our hosts are awesome. They are three girls, all students, who live in a cute little apartment near the center of the city. Today we just explored the city for a while and saw the main sites. Tomorrow we are going to Brussels (only 40 minutes by train) and then Saturday we are hopefully going to Amsterdam (a little longer train ride, about 2 hours). It's all been quite an adventure and I am enjoying every second of it one way or another!
Sunday, July 26, 2009
the city of light
Sorry for the lack of blog posting... the last week or so has been crazy busy. I left Rome on Friday, and have been in Paris since then, which I am absolutely loving.
The last week of the program was packed with stuff to do. I had my art history presentation, my final test in Gifts and Sacrifice class, and a few papers to write. We also had to have our last hurrahs in Rome, of course. The final days were so fun and yet bittersweet because I will miss Rome so much, and will also miss being with all the friends I made on the program. We will all see each other often in Seattle though, I'm sure.
Paris has been great. It is such a different city from Rome, so it has been refreshing-plus it is about 20 degrees cooler! We are staying in my mom's cousin's daugther's apartment (not quite sure what that makes us... 2nd cousins once removed? who knows) in the 18th arrd., so a little north of the city center. The apartment is great and we are loving having a free place to stay that feels more like home than a hostel. So far we have seen the Montmarte area, the Sacre Coeur, the Louvre (!!), Notre Dame, Moulin Rouge, the Arc de Triomph, the Latin Quarter, and the finish of Le Tour de France on the Champs-Elysees! That was so awesome. Plus we have had some great picnics with baugettes and cheese in beautiful gardens around the city, crossaints and coffee at the brasseries, and plenty of exploring. I am having an amazing time traveling with my friend Alicia. We usually make a tentative plan of what we want to see in a day, but aren't so strict in sticking to it that we get time to wander around the city, which I love.
I will try to post pictures from the last week in Rome soon, and also from Paris!
Next stop: Belgium!
The last week of the program was packed with stuff to do. I had my art history presentation, my final test in Gifts and Sacrifice class, and a few papers to write. We also had to have our last hurrahs in Rome, of course. The final days were so fun and yet bittersweet because I will miss Rome so much, and will also miss being with all the friends I made on the program. We will all see each other often in Seattle though, I'm sure.
Paris has been great. It is such a different city from Rome, so it has been refreshing-plus it is about 20 degrees cooler! We are staying in my mom's cousin's daugther's apartment (not quite sure what that makes us... 2nd cousins once removed? who knows) in the 18th arrd., so a little north of the city center. The apartment is great and we are loving having a free place to stay that feels more like home than a hostel. So far we have seen the Montmarte area, the Sacre Coeur, the Louvre (!!), Notre Dame, Moulin Rouge, the Arc de Triomph, the Latin Quarter, and the finish of Le Tour de France on the Champs-Elysees! That was so awesome. Plus we have had some great picnics with baugettes and cheese in beautiful gardens around the city, crossaints and coffee at the brasseries, and plenty of exploring. I am having an amazing time traveling with my friend Alicia. We usually make a tentative plan of what we want to see in a day, but aren't so strict in sticking to it that we get time to wander around the city, which I love.
I will try to post pictures from the last week in Rome soon, and also from Paris!
Next stop: Belgium!
Sunday, July 19, 2009
orvieto
On Friday, our group took an overnight trip to the beautiful town of Orvieto! The town is in the Umbria region of Italy, and it rests up on a hill with medieval walls surrounding it. It used to be an ancient Etruscan city, and over the years it was populated by the Romans, and then became a sort of a fortress in medieval times, so it has many layers of history. Being up on the hill provides great views of the Italian countryside in all directions.
Upon arriving, we first checked into our hotel, the Grand Italia. The hotel was really nice. After getting some lunch, we walked around the town (it is really small so this doesn't take very long) in search of some good views. We found a great spot and explored the area for a while, enjoying the scenery. I also liked seeing the quaint little side streets of the town as we walked around.
We met up with the group later for a visit to Orvieto's Duomo, or cathedral. Inside we saw the Capella di San Brizio with frescoes by Signorelli. The gothic church was really beautiful and was like a miniature version of Florence's Duomo.
After the Duomo visit, some of us walked down to see the Albornoz Fortress, which is now a public park. We walked along the walls that surrounded and protected the city in medieval times, which was really cool. Once, again, the views were AMAZING. We also saw the remains of an ancient Etruscan temple, probably from around 6 or 7 BC! So old.
Then it was time for our group dinner! We went to a nice little place called Antico Bucchero. I had some sort of pasta with vegetables which I forget the name of for primi, veal with a balsamic sauce for secondi, and of course tiramisu for dolci, all with the vino bianco which Orvieto is known for. After dinner we found another great lookout spot and sat in the grass for a while, looking up at the stars and watching fireflies go by. Life doesn't get much better than moments like this.
On Saturday, we had breakfast at the hotel and then headed to the Pozzo San Patrizio, which is a well from medieval times that has a unique double-helix design so that donkeys getting water could go down one side and up the other. We walked all the way down to the bottom of the well, which was cool, both literally and figuratively!
After our visit to the well we had a bit of free time before catching the train, so we wandered around the town, looking at the ceramic shops that Orvieto is known for. We also had chance to climb the clock tower, which is the highest point of Orvieto. The 360 degree views up there were great, and it was super windy which felt good since it was so hot. After spending some time up there we got sandwiches and headed for the train station.
I really liked Orvieto because of the small-town feel, and also because it didn't feel touristy at all. It was a relaxing experience, and when I come back to Italy someday, I definitely want to spend more time exploring the countryside. Now I can't believe that this is my last week in Roma!
Upon arriving, we first checked into our hotel, the Grand Italia. The hotel was really nice. After getting some lunch, we walked around the town (it is really small so this doesn't take very long) in search of some good views. We found a great spot and explored the area for a while, enjoying the scenery. I also liked seeing the quaint little side streets of the town as we walked around.
We met up with the group later for a visit to Orvieto's Duomo, or cathedral. Inside we saw the Capella di San Brizio with frescoes by Signorelli. The gothic church was really beautiful and was like a miniature version of Florence's Duomo.
After the Duomo visit, some of us walked down to see the Albornoz Fortress, which is now a public park. We walked along the walls that surrounded and protected the city in medieval times, which was really cool. Once, again, the views were AMAZING. We also saw the remains of an ancient Etruscan temple, probably from around 6 or 7 BC! So old.
Then it was time for our group dinner! We went to a nice little place called Antico Bucchero. I had some sort of pasta with vegetables which I forget the name of for primi, veal with a balsamic sauce for secondi, and of course tiramisu for dolci, all with the vino bianco which Orvieto is known for. After dinner we found another great lookout spot and sat in the grass for a while, looking up at the stars and watching fireflies go by. Life doesn't get much better than moments like this.
On Saturday, we had breakfast at the hotel and then headed to the Pozzo San Patrizio, which is a well from medieval times that has a unique double-helix design so that donkeys getting water could go down one side and up the other. We walked all the way down to the bottom of the well, which was cool, both literally and figuratively!
After our visit to the well we had a bit of free time before catching the train, so we wandered around the town, looking at the ceramic shops that Orvieto is known for. We also had chance to climb the clock tower, which is the highest point of Orvieto. The 360 degree views up there were great, and it was super windy which felt good since it was so hot. After spending some time up there we got sandwiches and headed for the train station.
I really liked Orvieto because of the small-town feel, and also because it didn't feel touristy at all. It was a relaxing experience, and when I come back to Italy someday, I definitely want to spend more time exploring the countryside. Now I can't believe that this is my last week in Roma!
Saturday, July 18, 2009
daily diary
Each of us has to write a Daily Diary for one day of the program-see my entry for Thursday:
http://dailydiarys09.blogspot.com/
Another blog to come soon about our trip to Orvieto!
http://dailydiarys09.blogspot.com/
Another blog to come soon about our trip to Orvieto!
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
old friends in new places, new friends in old places
Well, Saturday night I had the pleasant surprise of meeting up with my friend Rachael from back home! It was kind of surreal but really cool to hang out with her here. I showed her my apartment, then took her to aperitivo in Trastevere, my favorite gelato place Giolitti, and to drink from the Trevi fountain to ensure that we will both return to Roma. It was good to see a familiar face in a city that is new for both of us, and it also reminded me how much fun I am having with all of my new friends in the ancient city of Rome :)
Rach and me at the Trevi
The outside of the Palazzo Barberini-so grandiose!
There is so much to see and do in this last week and a half! A presentation, two papers, and a test... I will definitely be busy. But for now I am looking forward to our overnight trip to Orvieto on Friday!

Sunday was devoted solely to working on our independent project. My section was about the Ara Pacis Augustae and the propagandistic role it played during the Mussolini era; since Augustus was a powerful leader who restored greatness to Rome and expanded the Roman empire, Mussolini wanted to tie himself to Augustus to show that he, too, would do the same thing for Rome. He did this through restoring ancient monuments like the Ara Pacis, which was dedicated to Augustus, and reframing them in a way that contributed to his own political needs.
We presented on our project on Monday, and I think it went pretty well. It was interesting to research, but it is a relief to have it done! Now I have earned 5 of the 15 credits I will be getting in Rome. Whoo! We also had Mona's class, which has switched gears from focus on The Gift to focus on Sacrifice. This is a very provocative subject and I am enjoying our class discussions about it, especially as it relates to religion. The classroom gets really hot though!
At night we went on a gelato trek and ran into this wedding party on the way. It was super cool because the whole group was dancing in the cobblestone street, singing to loud music and having a great time; we even joined them for just a second. Their pure joy was definitely contagious and made my night.
On Tuesday, we went over to the Palazzo Barberini on the Quirinale Hill. They were a powerful family in Rome, one son went on to the papacy, and the Palazzo is their palace. The palazzo is now a museum and you can see some of the rooms that the family lived in. We even got to go inside a room that is close to the public-the frescoe on the ceiling is something that Lisa researched for a few years!
We presented on our project on Monday, and I think it went pretty well. It was interesting to research, but it is a relief to have it done! Now I have earned 5 of the 15 credits I will be getting in Rome. Whoo! We also had Mona's class, which has switched gears from focus on The Gift to focus on Sacrifice. This is a very provocative subject and I am enjoying our class discussions about it, especially as it relates to religion. The classroom gets really hot though!
At night we went on a gelato trek and ran into this wedding party on the way. It was super cool because the whole group was dancing in the cobblestone street, singing to loud music and having a great time; we even joined them for just a second. Their pure joy was definitely contagious and made my night.
On Tuesday, we went over to the Palazzo Barberini on the Quirinale Hill. They were a powerful family in Rome, one son went on to the papacy, and the Palazzo is their palace. The palazzo is now a museum and you can see some of the rooms that the family lived in. We even got to go inside a room that is close to the public-the frescoe on the ceiling is something that Lisa researched for a few years!
After the palazzo, Lisa took us to one of the supposedly two best coffee places in Rome, Caffe Tazza d'Oro (I went to the other one, Caffe Sant'Eustachio, with Sheida a few weeks ago). I got a macchiato and it was pretty good! I think I liked Tazza d'Oro better, although I got different drinks at the two places so that probably isn't a fair comparison.
Later that night, we went and sat by the Pantheon and in the Campo for a while. One of the boys from our program had checked out a guitar from the Rome Center so we listened while he played. We also met some really nice girls from Austria in the Campo that we talked to for a while. It was a fun and relaxing evening. OH and we saw the family from the TLC show "Little People Big World" being filmed by the Pantheon! So that was cool. The Obama's were in town for the G8 conference while we were in Florence, and apparently Michelle and the kids were by the Pantheon too. I'm kind of sad that I was gone while they were here; we live so close to the Pantheon, there is a good chance I could have seen them! Oh well.
Today, we had Gifts and Sacrifice class with two presentations and an interesting discussion about Cain and Able. After that, for Art History we heard a presentation about the Madonnas which are scattered all around Rome, and then went to Piazza Navona and learned about Bernini's "Fountain of the Four Rivers." There are four figures on the fountain, each representing one of the four great rivers of the world-the Nile, the Danube, the Ganges, and I forget the other one. I had actually never been to Piazza Navona during the day; it definitely had a different feel! I still think that I like the fountain better at night, though.
Later that night, we went and sat by the Pantheon and in the Campo for a while. One of the boys from our program had checked out a guitar from the Rome Center so we listened while he played. We also met some really nice girls from Austria in the Campo that we talked to for a while. It was a fun and relaxing evening. OH and we saw the family from the TLC show "Little People Big World" being filmed by the Pantheon! So that was cool. The Obama's were in town for the G8 conference while we were in Florence, and apparently Michelle and the kids were by the Pantheon too. I'm kind of sad that I was gone while they were here; we live so close to the Pantheon, there is a good chance I could have seen them! Oh well.
Today, we had Gifts and Sacrifice class with two presentations and an interesting discussion about Cain and Able. After that, for Art History we heard a presentation about the Madonnas which are scattered all around Rome, and then went to Piazza Navona and learned about Bernini's "Fountain of the Four Rivers." There are four figures on the fountain, each representing one of the four great rivers of the world-the Nile, the Danube, the Ganges, and I forget the other one. I had actually never been to Piazza Navona during the day; it definitely had a different feel! I still think that I like the fountain better at night, though.
There is so much to see and do in this last week and a half! A presentation, two papers, and a test... I will definitely be busy. But for now I am looking forward to our overnight trip to Orvieto on Friday!
Monday, July 13, 2009
firenze part 2: "Rome is hot because of the weather, Florence is hot because of the people"
On Friday, we started off the day with a visit to the Palazzo Medici, which is the amazingly huge palace where the powerful Medici's lived in Florence. We got to see some of the ornate rooms and a capella with a frescoe by Gozzoli from 1444.
In one of the courtyards of the Medici Palace-Michelangelo probably hung out here when he was younger, learning about sculpture from pieces in the Medici collection.
Leather!!
Panorama of the view from Piazza Michelangelo-weird lighting because of the sunset on the left, a thunderstorm off in the distance in the middle, and bluer skies on the right.

A ceiling frescoe in the old Medici living quarters-the style is called "grotesque" because this type of decoration was inspired by art seen in grottos of southern Italy (grotto-esque).
The secret spyhole in the mistress's room! It looks down onto the Council of 500 so she could spy on what was going on during social events, etc.
Then we headed over to the Mercato Centrale for olive oil/balsamic vinegar tasting! The place was called Conti's, after the owner Stefano Conti (who Lisa knew, once again!). His wife gave us tastes of different balsamics with cheese, fruit, or just in a spoon. Their flavors differ according to age; younger are more vinegary, older are more sweet. We also tried different kinds of Tusan olive oil, which vary according to the types of olives used. The Contis were super nice-they even showed us pictures of their son because it was his birthday that day!
After our tasting session we grabbed some paninis for lunch and sat in the Piazza Signoria (the square outside the Palazzo Vecchio), listening to some live music. We met some Italian boys (the quote in the title of this blog comes from them, ha!) and talked for a while about stuff like the differences between school in the U.S. and Italy. Then it was time to catch our train back to Rome and leave Florence behind. I was sad to leave, but I do love Rome and was ready to go back.
After the Medici palace, we headed to the Accademia gallery to see the DAVID by Michelangelo! So awesome, and pretty epic. This huge statue just epitomizes the Renaissance. It also is a symbol for Florence; just as David was the underdog against Goliath, Florence was the underdog against the bigger city of Rome. It's like saying "watch out, Rome-we are strong enough to take you on, just like David took on Goliath." They also had a Robert Mappelthorpe exhibit going on at the Accademia, which I absolutely loved. Mappelthrope was a modern photographer who took pictures of male and female nudes, which makes perfect sense to have at the Accademia considering that Renaissance scupltures like the David were attempts at perfecting the human form in marble. Some of the Mappelthorpe photographs were actually placed around the David and other Michelangelo statues, so the comparison was clear (again, no allowed pictures in the galleries!). His photographs are studies of the light and dark and geometric shapes, as well as of the human body. They were just absolutely stunning-there was even one of a loaf of bread that evoked Caravaggio with its play on shadows and light.
For lunch, Lisa took us to one of her favorite restaurants in Florence, Trattoria Mario. It is a little family-owned place (hence the "trattoria" in the name) that is only open for lunch. Lisa knows the family and everyone who works there really well. Their menu changes daily depending on what is fresh in the market. We happened to go on "seafood Friday," and I had spaghetti ai calamari for primi and pollo arrosto for secondi. It was fresh, simple, and delicous-Italian cooking at its best.
After lunch, we set off to do some shopping! Our main stop was a leather shop that Lisa has shopped at for years (again, she knows the owner! talk about connections). Florence is known for its leather and the purses are just beautiful. You walk into these stores and are surrounded by leather. Of course I had to get one! I got a great little saddle bag that I bargained down from 100 euro to 60 euro, so not bad! The purses are such good quality; the leather is treated right outside of Florence, and the bags are made in Florence. I am in love with my new purse.
For lunch, Lisa took us to one of her favorite restaurants in Florence, Trattoria Mario. It is a little family-owned place (hence the "trattoria" in the name) that is only open for lunch. Lisa knows the family and everyone who works there really well. Their menu changes daily depending on what is fresh in the market. We happened to go on "seafood Friday," and I had spaghetti ai calamari for primi and pollo arrosto for secondi. It was fresh, simple, and delicous-Italian cooking at its best.
After lunch, we set off to do some shopping! Our main stop was a leather shop that Lisa has shopped at for years (again, she knows the owner! talk about connections). Florence is known for its leather and the purses are just beautiful. You walk into these stores and are surrounded by leather. Of course I had to get one! I got a great little saddle bag that I bargained down from 100 euro to 60 euro, so not bad! The purses are such good quality; the leather is treated right outside of Florence, and the bags are made in Florence. I am in love with my new purse.
After a little time off to nap and admire all of our leather purchases (the whole group took the shop by storm; the owner definitely "made his spaghetti" that day!), we decided to hike up to the Piazza Michelangelo, which is on a hill that overlooks Florence and the surrounding Tuscan hills. The view was GORGEOUS! We got to the top right before sunset, and stood on the edge absording the beautiful scenery and watching the sun set over Florence for a while. This was definitely one of the highlights of the trip.
For dinner, we went to a place called Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco (which means "white boar") on the other side of the Arno river, the same side of the river as Piazza Michelangelo. I got strozzapreti al burro, which are spinach and ricotta dumplings. So good! I cannot believe how well I am eating on this trip, although we walk so much every day I'm not too worried about gaining any weight!
On Saturday, our last day in Florence, we checked out of our rooms, stored our luggage for the day, and set out for our tour of the Palazzo Vecchio. This was built to be, and still is, the center of the Florentine Government. The Medici also lived there for a while. We had a tour guide to show us around, and it was cool to see places like the Hall of 500, where government officials would meet, and the secret room complete with a spyhole for one of the Medici's mistresses.
On Saturday, our last day in Florence, we checked out of our rooms, stored our luggage for the day, and set out for our tour of the Palazzo Vecchio. This was built to be, and still is, the center of the Florentine Government. The Medici also lived there for a while. We had a tour guide to show us around, and it was cool to see places like the Hall of 500, where government officials would meet, and the secret room complete with a spyhole for one of the Medici's mistresses.
A ceiling frescoe in the old Medici living quarters-the style is called "grotesque" because this type of decoration was inspired by art seen in grottos of southern Italy (grotto-esque).
After our tasting session we grabbed some paninis for lunch and sat in the Piazza Signoria (the square outside the Palazzo Vecchio), listening to some live music. We met some Italian boys (the quote in the title of this blog comes from them, ha!) and talked for a while about stuff like the differences between school in the U.S. and Italy. Then it was time to catch our train back to Rome and leave Florence behind. I was sad to leave, but I do love Rome and was ready to go back.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
firenze part 1: "i can smell the leather from our window"
I just presented my independent project (5 credits, check) and finally have time to write a blog about our trip to Florence, home of the Renaissance and the great Medici family.
The whole trip was kind of themed around the Medici, their rise to and fall from power, and most importantly their prolific patronage of art. A lot of the Renaissance art that we saw in Florence was commissioned by the Medicis. This was definitely a trip centered around art, which I loved! Florence was fun and a nice change of pace from Rome, although I feel like Rome is more where I belong. At one point during the trip I even felt a little "Rome"-sick!
So we left last Wednesday and took the Eurostar train to Florence (aka Firenze in Italian), and got great views of the hills of Tuscany from the train. Upon arrival we checked our bags at the Hotel Giada, which is right in the middle of the leather market. Then we went to our first site, the Orsanmichele, which is a 13th century Guild hall (upper floors) and church (first floor). The outside of the hall is covered with niches that house statues of various saints scuplted by artists like Ghiberti and Donatello (the originals are now in museums, so these are just casts). Each guild (e.g. wool, grain..) had their own niche, and competed to fill them with the best statue. Inside is a beautiful, old Christian church.
One of the statues in the niches of the Orsanmichele

Later we went to Santa Croce, a Franciscan church which houses the tombs of people who were important to Florence (Michelangelo, Galileo, etc.). The church also had some pretty outdoor courtyards and smaller capellas (chapels).

In the evening we had our group dinner at Trattoria Za Za. I had ravioli with some kind of truffle cream sauce for primi, and beef with a really good sauce and arugula for secondi. Both were delicious! A friend and I also split Tiramisu (always a must at group dinners). After dinner Lisa took us on a little nightime walk around Florence.

On Thursday, we started off the day by visiting a restored Renaissace palace, called the Palazzo Davanzati. It was cool to see what the house of a rich and powerful Florentine family would have looked like during the 1500's.
Later we went to the Museo Nazionale del Bargello, which houses art by great Renaissance artists such as Donatello, Brunelleschi, and Michelangelo. Then we went to the UFFIZI! I was so excited to visit one of the best art galleries in the world. I was blown away by Botticelli's "Birth of Venus" and "La Primavera." I also saw works by Da Vinci, Bellini, Michelangeo, Raphael, El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt, Goya, Caravaggio.... the list goes on and on. The gallery was huge and it took me three hours just to walk through it at a fairly quick pace, stopping only at my favorites. Definitely a huge dose of great artwork that I can appreciate much more now that I have seen it in person, and also with the background I have from our Art History class.
(no pictures are allowed in all of these galleries, and only some of the churches allow photography).
For dinner, we crossed the Arno river on the Ponte Vecchio (super old bridge!) and found a place in Piazza San Spirito, where we all ordered pizza. It was refreshing to explore a part of Florence that was not swarming with huge tourist groups. After dinner we headed back across the river to listen to some live music in the Piazza Signoria, complete with some wine to share.
The whole trip was kind of themed around the Medici, their rise to and fall from power, and most importantly their prolific patronage of art. A lot of the Renaissance art that we saw in Florence was commissioned by the Medicis. This was definitely a trip centered around art, which I loved! Florence was fun and a nice change of pace from Rome, although I feel like Rome is more where I belong. At one point during the trip I even felt a little "Rome"-sick!
So we left last Wednesday and took the Eurostar train to Florence (aka Firenze in Italian), and got great views of the hills of Tuscany from the train. Upon arrival we checked our bags at the Hotel Giada, which is right in the middle of the leather market. Then we went to our first site, the Orsanmichele, which is a 13th century Guild hall (upper floors) and church (first floor). The outside of the hall is covered with niches that house statues of various saints scuplted by artists like Ghiberti and Donatello (the originals are now in museums, so these are just casts). Each guild (e.g. wool, grain..) had their own niche, and competed to fill them with the best statue. Inside is a beautiful, old Christian church.
After this we went to the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (aka "Il Duomo") and the Baptistery, both of which we walked by every day. The Duomo is huge and incredibly ornate. None of my pictures show the whole thing because it is so huge. When it was built the architect was told to make a cathedral that would never be rivaled in greatness, and I think he succeeded. It actually went about 150 years without a roof until Brunelleschi designed a dome to cover it.
In the evening we had our group dinner at Trattoria Za Za. I had ravioli with some kind of truffle cream sauce for primi, and beef with a really good sauce and arugula for secondi. Both were delicious! A friend and I also split Tiramisu (always a must at group dinners). After dinner Lisa took us on a little nightime walk around Florence.
On Thursday, we started off the day by visiting a restored Renaissace palace, called the Palazzo Davanzati. It was cool to see what the house of a rich and powerful Florentine family would have looked like during the 1500's.
Later we went to the Museo Nazionale del Bargello, which houses art by great Renaissance artists such as Donatello, Brunelleschi, and Michelangelo. Then we went to the UFFIZI! I was so excited to visit one of the best art galleries in the world. I was blown away by Botticelli's "Birth of Venus" and "La Primavera." I also saw works by Da Vinci, Bellini, Michelangeo, Raphael, El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt, Goya, Caravaggio.... the list goes on and on. The gallery was huge and it took me three hours just to walk through it at a fairly quick pace, stopping only at my favorites. Definitely a huge dose of great artwork that I can appreciate much more now that I have seen it in person, and also with the background I have from our Art History class.
(no pictures are allowed in all of these galleries, and only some of the churches allow photography).
For dinner, we crossed the Arno river on the Ponte Vecchio (super old bridge!) and found a place in Piazza San Spirito, where we all ordered pizza. It was refreshing to explore a part of Florence that was not swarming with huge tourist groups. After dinner we headed back across the river to listen to some live music in the Piazza Signoria, complete with some wine to share.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
time flies
Wow, is week two over already? My time here in Roma is really flying by. I'm already realizing how much I've come to love the city, and how much I will miss it when I leave. But for now I am still enjoying it to the fullest!
On Saturday night we had a great 4th of July party at Doug's apartment. He is a professor for the CHID (Comparative History of Ideas) program going on at the UW Rome Center right now, and has a great apartment overlooking the Campo de Fiori. Our whole group, plus some CHID students, brought food to share and had a nice big BBQ complete with hamburgers, potato salad, and watermelon. Doug and Lisa even managed to find some fireworks, so we all lit some sparklers and set off some bottle rockets. I felt very American.
Today we went to SPERLONGA! It's a quaint little beach town on the Italian coast, a bit south of Rome. We took a train from Rome to Fondi and then a bus from Fondi to Sperlonga. I really enjoyed seeing the Italian countryside-definitely different from Rome! Anyways the beach was amazing! We swam in the Mediterranean, played beach volleyball, layed out in the sun, and ate some delicious mozarella sandwiches. It was so relaxing and we all had a really great time.
This upcoming week will be very busy... tomorrow we have a test in Gifts and Sacrifice class, then in the evening an Italian chef is giving us a cooking demonstration and preparing a 5-course, traditional Italian meal for us at Mona's apartment. I can't wait! Then Tuesday we have a busy day of class, and then Wednesday we leave for Florence bright and early! So I may not have time to post a blog for a while.
On Saturday night we had a great 4th of July party at Doug's apartment. He is a professor for the CHID (Comparative History of Ideas) program going on at the UW Rome Center right now, and has a great apartment overlooking the Campo de Fiori. Our whole group, plus some CHID students, brought food to share and had a nice big BBQ complete with hamburgers, potato salad, and watermelon. Doug and Lisa even managed to find some fireworks, so we all lit some sparklers and set off some bottle rockets. I felt very American.
Today we went to SPERLONGA! It's a quaint little beach town on the Italian coast, a bit south of Rome. We took a train from Rome to Fondi and then a bus from Fondi to Sperlonga. I really enjoyed seeing the Italian countryside-definitely different from Rome! Anyways the beach was amazing! We swam in the Mediterranean, played beach volleyball, layed out in the sun, and ate some delicious mozarella sandwiches. It was so relaxing and we all had a really great time.
This upcoming week will be very busy... tomorrow we have a test in Gifts and Sacrifice class, then in the evening an Italian chef is giving us a cooking demonstration and preparing a 5-course, traditional Italian meal for us at Mona's apartment. I can't wait! Then Tuesday we have a busy day of class, and then Wednesday we leave for Florence bright and early! So I may not have time to post a blog for a while.
Saturday, July 4, 2009
happy 4th
Happy 4th of July from Roma, everyone!
So Thursday we went to San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) for Art History class. It's the church that holds the chains that supposedly bound St. Peter in Jerusalem. It also houses Michelangelo's Moses! This was one of his masterpieces and what he considered to be his best work, although it did not turn out to be as big as he had originally planned. It was also supposed to be on the tomb of Julius II, but that never happened either. Anyways the church is beautiful, and the sculpture is amazing. The emotion on Moses' face is especially captivating.
Michelangelo's Moses!

Ceiling painting in Il Gesu-it is designed like an optical illusion, where the figures seem to be descending straight out of the sky.
Trying to capture the rain coming through the oculus.
The lively festival along the Tiber
View from the top of the hill
Tonight we are having a group BBQ/4th of July celebration. A professor from another UW program going on right now is letting us use his apartment, which has a terrace and a barbeque. Tomorrow we are going to the beach at Sperlonga! I am excited for some downtime away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
So Thursday we went to San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) for Art History class. It's the church that holds the chains that supposedly bound St. Peter in Jerusalem. It also houses Michelangelo's Moses! This was one of his masterpieces and what he considered to be his best work, although it did not turn out to be as big as he had originally planned. It was also supposed to be on the tomb of Julius II, but that never happened either. Anyways the church is beautiful, and the sculpture is amazing. The emotion on Moses' face is especially captivating.
After San Pietro in Vincoli we visited the Capitoline Hill, which was designed by Michelangelo (a prolific guy in Rome!). He planned the layout of the Piazza at the top of the square and the architecture of the buildings. It was supposed to symbolize the civic center of Rome, which it still kind of does. I think that we get to go back to the Capitoline Museum, which has some great ancient stuff, such as pieces of the giant statue of Constantine.
In the afternoon, we visited Il Gesu, or "The Jesus," which is the mother church of the Jesuits. The Jesuits were/are a Catholic religious order devoted to Jesus-hence their name. They were first established to help the pope and the Catholic church battle the Reformation through their teachings and missionary work. The Baroque church is incredibally ornate on the inside. It even houses a first-order relic of the church, the bones of the hand of St. Francis!
In the afternoon, we visited Il Gesu, or "The Jesus," which is the mother church of the Jesuits. The Jesuits were/are a Catholic religious order devoted to Jesus-hence their name. They were first established to help the pope and the Catholic church battle the Reformation through their teachings and missionary work. The Baroque church is incredibally ornate on the inside. It even houses a first-order relic of the church, the bones of the hand of St. Francis!
Ceiling painting in Il Gesu-it is designed like an optical illusion, where the figures seem to be descending straight out of the sky.
After class on Thursday we had another thunderstorm... since we were at our apartment, which is only a few blocks from the Pantheon, we decided to run there to see the rain coming through the oculus. SO COOL! The pictures don't really do it justice since it was hard to capture the rain, but it was fun to stand there and watch the rain come through. The thunder just made it more exciting. They had the area taped off so the rain could go through the drains in the ground.
Yesterday (Friday), we had Gifts and Sacrifice class, and also watched the movie "Babette's Feast" for class. Most of the time we spent reviewing for our test on Monday. It's amazing how fast a 5-credit class goes in 5 weeks! Later in the evening, almost all of the girls in the program went out for Aperitivo in the Trastevere area. This is an Italian concept where you go to a bar, pay for your drink (usually a bit more expensive than normal), and then have access to an all-you-can-eat appetizer buffet. What a great idea! Apertivo can start as early as 6 PM and go as late as 10 or 11. It is designed to be a stop before going out for dinner or a night on the town. We all made several trips to the buffet, though, so it was enough dinner for us! After that we hung around in Trastevere for a while, people-watching and sitting by the fountain in Piazza della Santa Maria in Trastevere. We also visited the summer festival that is being held along the banks of the Tiber river. It was a relaxing Friday night after a busy week.
This morning (Saturday) we went to the Galleria Borghese. I LOVED it. The art there was so awesome. We saw multiple Caravaggio paintings, other great Baroque and Mannerist works, and most importantly, simply AMAZING Bernini sculptures! The ones we saw were the first four he made, paid for by the Borghese family. I am blown away that at my age, Bernini was making these masterpieces. The detail, the accuracy of the human body, the emotion on the faces-all carved out of a big piece of marble! It just overwhelms me. We looked at the statues for quite a while, as they never cease to amaze (unfortunately, no cameras allowed in the Galleria). After that I spent some time admiring the Caravaggios, and then we explored the Villa Borghese, which is the huge estate that the Galleria is in. There are other museums in the estate too, as well as a zoo and lots of romantic gardens. It was really a beautiful place. My guidebook had rated it the most romantic place in Rome-now I can see why! It is on the top of a hill and therefore has some great views of the city as well.
On the way back, Sheida and I walked down the Via del Corso, which is a major shopping street in Rome. Twice a year, every store has a government-mandated sale, one of which is going on right now. Obviously we couldn't help but do a little shopping with all the "saldi" signs screaming at us!
Thursday, July 2, 2009
busy busy
Wow it has been a busy week! Sorry for the delay in posting.
Picking up where I left off... Saturday night we went to this AWESOME pizza place: Pizzaria da Baffetto. It was delicious and a great little family restaurant.

And then we went to the Trevi Fountain! Nighttime sightseeing is definitely the way to go. The places just come alive. I made a wish and then we sat in awe of the fountain for a while. Great people watching as well!

Sunday was the Porta Portese flea market in Trastevere! It was huge and overwhelming, especially the tables with clothing. There would just be huge piles to dig through with Italian ladies sitting on top of the tables, smoking and yelling at the passersby to stop and look at their wares. Definitely a sensory experience. I got a ring, a scarf, and some vintage Roma postcards to frame.
Monday we had Gifts and Sacrifice class, which I am actually really enjoying. The reading and discussions are thought-provoking and interesting. Our first test is Monday though-eek! After class and dinner, we went to the Spanish Steps! With a stop at Giolitti for gelato, of course. Nighttime sightseeing once again. A lot of young people go to the steps to hang out at night. We climbed to the top and got a great view of the city!
The view from halfway up-that is the street with all the really expensive designer stores (Gucci, Prada, etc.) I wish I could shop there!
On Tuesday, our Art History class made a trip to the Vatican Museums. I was super excited to see all of the art, but it ended up being so crowded and hot that the experience wasn't as great as I thought it would be. I would like to go back some other time when I don't have to fight people to see the artwork. Plus there are twelve museums, so we barely scratched the surface. I still enjoyed it, though. Some of these masterpieces that we get to see give me shivers. We went through the painting gallery (which includes altar pieces from the original St. Peters), the sculpture garden (highlighted by the famous Laocoon sculpture), the old papal apartments (great frescoes in there by Raphael and other painters), and of course visited Michaelangelo's Sistine Chapel (no pictures allowed, unfortunately). We will be going back to Vatican City twice more for class, so I will have a chance to go inside St. Peter's Basilica and see more of the area.


View from the top of the Castel (St. Peter's in the distance)
The group at the top, soaked in the rain!
I will write another post soon about the sites we visited today and about the fun weekend ahead-we are planning a trip to the beach in Sperlonga! So ciao for now :)
Picking up where I left off... Saturday night we went to this AWESOME pizza place: Pizzaria da Baffetto. It was delicious and a great little family restaurant.
And then we went to the Trevi Fountain! Nighttime sightseeing is definitely the way to go. The places just come alive. I made a wish and then we sat in awe of the fountain for a while. Great people watching as well!
Sunday was the Porta Portese flea market in Trastevere! It was huge and overwhelming, especially the tables with clothing. There would just be huge piles to dig through with Italian ladies sitting on top of the tables, smoking and yelling at the passersby to stop and look at their wares. Definitely a sensory experience. I got a ring, a scarf, and some vintage Roma postcards to frame.
Monday we had Gifts and Sacrifice class, which I am actually really enjoying. The reading and discussions are thought-provoking and interesting. Our first test is Monday though-eek! After class and dinner, we went to the Spanish Steps! With a stop at Giolitti for gelato, of course. Nighttime sightseeing once again. A lot of young people go to the steps to hang out at night. We climbed to the top and got a great view of the city!
A Raphael fresco in the papal apartments
Yesterday (Wednesday) we had a long day of Gifts and Sacrifice class. I had a group presentation to give, and then after class discussion, we watched "The Merchant of Venice," analyzing the role of the gift in the movie/play. For Art History, we visited the Castel Sant'Angelo. SO COOL! It was originally the emperor Hadrian's mausoleum, but over the years it took on other roles, such as a military fortress and papal apartments. Now it is a museum and tourist attraction. Right when we got there, a thunderstorm started brewing in the distance, and by the time we made it past the Bernini sculptures into the Castel, it was thunderstorming like crazy. It was fun to be inside the Castel during a storm. I felt like one of the popes who escaped to the fortified Castel during times of danger. The view at the top was amazing too-we got panoramic views of the city as well as a great view of the lightning, getting soaked with rain in the process. So worth it though!
Going over the bridge (line with Bernini statues) to get to the Castel
After our visit to the Castel we rushed to Angolo Divino for our wine-tasting appointment with Massimo! We had arranged a time for almost the whole class to go and learn about different types of wine, how to analyze a glass of wine (now I know what tannin is!), and of course to taste the wine. He had three different red wines for us to try, all of which were very good, especially with the appetizers he provided. I had never really known about wine before so this was a good introduction.
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